Spectacular Seabird Colonies and Adak Revisited

June 2 - 4

The trip east was supposed to be a lot less rocky and bumpy than the trip west, but at the start, this was not the case.  The winds were fighting the currents, causing seas that fought us.  For much of the trip, I rested comfortably in my bunk. The truth was that the nausea wasn't a problem if I was prone, and you can only sleep so much.  A lot of the time, I felt fine but was awake and bored.  Thank goodness the games on my phone worked!  I wanted to be sure that I would save my limited vertical time for some of the spectacles we were looking for on the way back. There was a significant earthquake "near" Attu the day after we left.  It was 200 km away, so I doubt we would have felt it in any case, but aboard the Puk-uk, every moment at sea seemed like an earthquake.

Pillar Rock

The first was Pillar Rock, where a species I hadn't seen before this trip was present in the thousands.  Thick-billed Murres breed on this rock spire, along with Common Murres and Pelagic Cormorants.  Seabird colonies are drawn to this kind of remote vertical island where predators are few, but other dangers are plentiful.  Captain Billy did a full circumnavigation of the rock so that everyone could have good looks.  The seas were too rough for a close approach, but it was still quite the spectacle to behold.  It's pretty cool to get a lifer on a trip, and then see thousands of them all at once.

Marker indicates Pillar Rock near Kiska Island

Next we headed towards Sirius Point on Kiska Island, where huge numbers of Crested and Least Auklets nest.  The best time to see masses of these birds is in the late evening when the adults return to the nests with food for the young.  Due to the weather and our altered schedule, we arrived in the early afternoon. There were still lots of birds, including more than 1000 Crested Auklets.  The thing about Crested Auklets is that they smell.  No, not like a murre colony smells, but a scent that has been described as like a tangerine.  Nicole had come up to the wheelhouse and suggested that I step out on the deck to see if I could smell them.  As much as I wanted to, I knew better than to try that.

All along the way, birds approached the boat and provided excellent views.  We also got to witness the life and death struggle that these birds endure every day.  Gulls pursued Least Auklets on a regular basis.  The auklets were almost always able to outmaneuver the gulls, unless they formed a gang.  The usual pattern was that the gull would chase the auklet, which would dive into a wave, only to come up several waves away out of sight of the gull.  However, occasionally, three or four gulls would be pursuing a single auklet. It would dive into a wave, and the gulls would land on the water, spreading out for about 10 feet from where the auklet submerged.  When it would pop up again, it often was close to one of the gang members, and that would be the beginning of the end.  Not long after Kiska, I headed back to my bunk.  Lying down, I was fine.  Sitting in the wheelhouse, I could last a few hours.  Standing or moving around, bad news.  I felt a bit like a prisoner, trapped in my bunk when I'd rather be outside.  Staring at the ceiling, I came up with a haiku:

Horizontally,

Stuck between the sky and sea,

Mal de mer and me.

June 3 was challenging in a different way. We'd seen the expected spectacles, pretty much everyone had seen all of the species that we were hoping to see, and the day was long.  At some point during the day, the seas started to calm down and the ride was much gentler--for a few hours.   We took turns in the wheelhouse, then disappearing to our cabins for rest or resetting.  Whiskered Auklets were on the agenda for the next morning, and I think we all wished the morning would just hurry up and come.  The seas picked up again as the crew took the boat towards Little Tanaga Strait.  We would anchor near this location for the night, with a short run to the auklet colony in the morning.

Little Tanaga Strait

Dawn broke, and it was beautiful.  Our anchorage was calm, and I think all of us were well rested.  We headed into the strait to look for auklets.  It was definitely choppier here, although not as rough as the journey from Attu.  At first we saw a couple.  Then a few more. Then 20.  All of a sudden, we were surrounded by Whiskered Auklets.  Most of us braved the splash coming over the bow to get outside and get closer to the birds.  I think I took 100 pictures, and almost none turned out because of too much movement.  Fortunately, others got great shots, which I'll share with you here.

Me, outside! - John Puschock

John outside.

Whiskered Auklet - Neil Hayward

More Whiskered Auklets - Neil Hayward

After about an hour of auklet saturation, we headed to our port on nearby Adak Island.  Last photos of the boat, last photos of the crew, last photos of strangers who had become friends over our two week adventure. There was barely enough time for us to get packed, but we managed to be ready when we pulled up to the dock.

Nicole in her domain

Mike tidying up

Bill on dry land!

The trip wasn't over yet, though. There was still time to try to track down some of those missing birds.  We piled into the trucks and headed off, stopping to see the Hawfinch, Brambling, Gray-crowned Rosy Finch and Common Rosefinch. They seemed to be everywhere!

Brambling- Neil Hayward

Hawfinch -Neil Hayward

Gray-crowned Rosy Finch

We headed to Clam Lagoon, where word was that the Far Eastern Curlew was still present.  And it was!  The Gilbert Ridge group may have missed it on Attu, but got in on Adak!  Clam Lagoon was good to us, providing looks at Slaty-backed Gull, Black-headed Gull, Kittlitz's Murrelet, and several other species.  Sea otters with their young were swimming close to shore.  The most surprising find, at least for some of us, was Brad!  He'd hopped the plane and had gotten back to Adak before us, but we'd seen a lot more birds on the journey.  We continued as far as the road would take us around the lagoon, and were on our return when I heard what sounded like a loud burp.  John called out "Rock Ptarmigan".  We hopped out of the truck and headed through a swale to try to relocate the bird.  Within a few minutes, I heard the burp again as he took flight.  I was the last to score this bird for the trip, but happy to claim my 27th lifer in Alaska.

Far Eastern Curlew at Clam Lagoon - Neil Hayward

Sea Otter with pup

At the airport, the group discussed where everyone was headed next.  Yve and I were staying overnight in Anchorage.  Monica and Greg would be sleeping in their own bed that night, then starting preparations for an epic bike trip later this summer. John was meeting more birders for another tour aboard the Puk-uk. Everyone else was heading south after Anchorage and then home, some not arriving for another 24 hours.  I think our group represented about half the passengers on the flight from Adak to Anchorage.  The plane was so empty, they gave everyone their own rows.  The flights only go twice a week, but it seems unlikely that they are profitable.  Adak is a desolate place, and the buildings are largely in ruins.  Perhaps birding has the potential to help the economy of this small Aleutian community.  The birds were fantastic in Adak this year, as they were in other parts of Alaska.  So why go to Attu?

If you calculate the value of your birds by cost per "tick", Attu is probably one of the most expensive places to go birding, and it's a crapshoot.  This year, we got lucky and saw lots of great birds, but there are no guarantees. We missed some of the most expected species, but found others.

For me, going to Attu was more about the connection I felt to other birders. Attu is legendary. I've never had an opportunity to be part of a legend before.  It was challenging, even gruelling at times. I was in close quarters with people I probably wouldn't have met anywhere else, and now they are a part of my life.  We share Attu.

Birding on Attu made me up my game.  The scarcity of birds kept me focussed, and I found I stayed on them better than ever before.  That might be the only chance I'd have to see that species and I wasn't going to let it go. I think I can use that in everyday birding, too.  Attu was also a reminder that for most of us on board, we aren't going to get better or stronger physically.  I came home knowing that if there are any other physically demanding trips I want to do, I ought to do them sooner rather than later. The easy tours might have to wait.

Despite the seasickness, despite the drizzle, despite all of the challenges of this trip, the one thing that I know best of all is that I am sure glad that I went!  Thank you, John, for providing a way for us to do this, and for your knowledge of all things Aleutian.  Thanks, too, to Neil, Bill, Mike, and Nicole for looking after us, and to my fellow passengers, Clarice, Yve, Monica, Greg, Dave, Brandon, and Patty for making this a trip to remember!  I hope our paths cross again.

Bogoslof Island volcano as seen while flying between Adak and Anchorage.

eBird Checklist: June 2, June 3, June 4 Little Tanaga Strait, June 4 Adak

Next:  Tips for the queasy (This one might not be up for a couple of weeks. For future reference)

Leaving Attu

June 1, 2017

Our last day on the island.  The plan was to go to Gilbert Ridge and Alexai Point again, in search of vagrants that had been brought down by the rains over the last few days.  Our last trip to the point had been scuttled by word of a Smew, so there could be shorebirds that had yet to be discovered.  Scopolamine patches had been applied, and we were ready for our final trek on Attu.

Unfortunately, the weather forecast had changed--for the worse, so an early departure was now anticipated.  Instead of leaving after supper, we'd be heading east by mid-afternoon.  This change in the weather also meant that a landing near the stinky whale was off. We would start at Alexai once again.

Cackling Goose nest on Alexai Point.  A Glaucous-winged Gull took an egg and swallowed it whole.

Since we knew our time would be limited, we split into two groups right away.  The Gilbert Ridge plan, as it had been on our second day, would be to walk partway along the ridge trail then return to Alexai Point.  The Alexai Point group would focus on the coastal areas, trying for an extra-interesting shorebird.  If either group found a good new bird, the other would meet up with them.

We were becoming quite familiar with the routes, just in time for our departure.  I went with the Gilbert Ridge group, led by Neil, and comprised of Monica, Greg, and Dave.  Dave and I were lagging a bit behind the others about a kilometer away from the team at the point when he said to me, "I wonder what would happen if they found a good bird back at the point?  Would we go back or carry on as planned?"  Do you remember in The Big Year when Brad said to Stu, "The birds will still be here--unless there's a freak snowstorm"? Well, life imitates art.  Less than a minute later, we heard John on the radio, "Far Eastern Curlew, Far Eastern Curlew!"  The bird was flying, and had not been located on the ground.  Should we stay or should we go?  The decision was unanimous.  Continue on our planned route.

Far Eastern Curlew - Brad Benter

The ground was supersaturated, and in many places, the path was submerged.  As bad as the path was, the ground at the base of the cliffs was even worse, making Neil's job a lot more difficult.  One of our targets was a Common Cuckoo, as this species was most often found in June, and it was now June.  Would luck be with us? We kept going, but the only birds we were seeing were the now familiar Song Sparrows.  We were a couple of miles along the route, when we got a call from Nicole from the Puk-uk.  Brad had relocated the Smew and possibly a small flock of Taiga Bean-Geese at Henderson Marsh.  You could almost hear the eyes roll in our heads.  There were two, possibly three new birds available, but all miles away from us.  The Puk-uk was going to pick up the group at Alexai Point.  We could choose to hike quickly back to join them, as there is no place along the ridge for a safe skiff landing, or we could hike quickly to Henderson Marsh. The group decided there was no turning back!  With a hopeful voice, I asked just how long this would take if we hiked quickly.  The answer: 2 hours.   I was hoping for 45 minutes!  At this clip, we wouldn't be searching for birds along the way, although I think all of us were listening hard in case we heard an unfamiliar voice.

The guys got well ahead of Monica and me, but we were making pretty good time.  They radioed back about the river being swollen and much deeper than it was on Day 2, but it could still be crossed.  We were about 15 minutes behind them, so they'd had lunch while they waited in the lea of a hill. The wind had really picked up.

I underestimated the depth of the river and got a boot full of water, but got to the meeting point in time to eat half a sandwich before the group from the Puk-uk arrived.  On their way from Alexai Point, a Black Oystercatcher--rare for Attu--had crossed their path.  I reminded John that I had predicted a Black Oystercatcher the evening before when reviewing the checklist.

Now that our group was reassembled, we headed along the old road on the south edge of Henderson Marsh towards the aptly named Smew Pond.  Given the skittishness of the birds, we were travelling slowly and quietly.  As we approached, we saw three Red-breasted Mergansers along with a few other ducks, but no Smew.  Again.  When they saw us, the birds took off, the three mergansers passing behind a knoll almost directly across from where we stood. Three birds went in.  Four came out!  SMEW!!!!   We all got unsatisfactory looks of the Smew as she flew away from us.  But then, the group turned around, made a loop almost over our heads, then flew towards the shore again.  Much better looks this time!

Female Smew - Brad Benter (Taken a few days before we saw her, but probably the same bird.)

Next we were off on a wild goose chase, in search of the possible Taiga Bean-Goose.  Despite walking much of the marsh, we couldn't find anything even close.  We were about to head back to the beach when Brad came rolling in on his all-terrain bicycle.The geese were gone, but he had photos.  After a quick review, the decision was that the geese were probably Tundra Bean-Geese, after all. (Just checking Brad's eBird list and the jury may still be out on that. You really should look at this list. Quite the day he had on June 1!) But we got a Smew!  Brad had had an even better day.  He had been past Engineer Hill and out to Sarana Bay, about a three-hour hike away and had found Brown Shrike, Gray-streaked Flycatcher, Rustic Bunting, Bar-tailed Godwit, more Common Rosefinches, and several of the more common Attu vagrants.  In that moment, I understood why people kept returning to Attu over and over.  Anything could happen. It was time for us to go back to the boat, and we were leaving some very good birds behind.

With the winds and the waves pushing us around again, there was no chance to swing close to Alexai Point for a possible look for the curlew, but there had been one hanging around at Adak, so there was still a chance for those who didn't see the flyby.  I went to the pilot house as quickly as I could after boarding. If we were going to have a rough ride, I needed to be in position to get some birds I missed on the way to Attu. Watch the horizon in the window behind Neil in this video for a small taste of what we were getting. Videos don't do it justice, though, as the movement of the boat offsets the movement of the ocean some.

Weather discussion on board as we leave Attu.  Featuring John Puschock, Patty O'Neill, and Neil Hayward.  View full screen for best effect.

The seas were not kind, but the birds were,  Over the course of the afternoon, I added Mottled Petrel and Red-legged Kittiwake to my life list.  Short-tailed Shearwaters, Black-legged Kittiwakes and Northern Fulmars accompanied us as we made our way. I was tired after our arduous hike, but determined to stay put as long as I could.  I knew if I went to the cabin, I'd be staying there for a while.

How many species?  No chumming involved!

In a fit of overconfidence, when Nicole announced that dinner was ready, I foolishly went to the galley and ate.  I was only about halfway through when I became profoundly aware of the error of my ways.  Passing my plate to Nicole, I asked if I could please have another garbage bag.  Due to the rough seas en route, we'd gone through more than our fair share, so she suggested that I might retire to one of the more favored locations, the stern of the boat, or one of the heads.  On some pelagic trips, relieving seasickness in the heads is forbidden. Not so on the Puk-uk.  They are usually cramped airless spaces and, well, you know...  I assured Nicole that there was no way I was making it to the stern, and I wasn't confident that I would make it to the head, but I'd try.  I still wanted the bag just in case, and would return it if it wasn't used.  Bag in hand, I raced to the head. Success!  Sort of.  The rocking of the ship brought gravity into play and the toilet seat came down on my head with a thunk!  It is difficult to maintain one's dignity in such a situation.   Pro tip: When puking on a rocking ship, hold the toilet seat up with one hand.  I went to my bunk and my stash of hard candies, deliberately on board to deal with the aftereffects.
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eBird Checklist: June 1
Next: Spectacular Seabird Colonies and Adak Revisited

Becoming a Part of Attu History

May 31, 2017

This was to be our final day on the bikes.  Over the week, several love-hate relationships had developed, and a couple of divorces had already taken place.  In addition to the increasing sogginess of the ground overall, we'd been handed another challenge.  The vehicles being used for the toxic waste cleanup were tank-treaded monsters, chewing up what was left of the trails that we'd just figured out how to manage. Perhaps their travel over the old roads will be a benefit for next year's group, but for us, it just added another layer of difficulty.

Taxiways could use a bit of work.

Absence of connection with the outside world also made it challenging to even remember what day it was.  I've consulted a calendar and can now say that it was Tuesday.  It was another drizzly start, quite cold, and with a wind once we were well soaked.  We checked the ponds around the runways carefully for any sign of the Tufted Duck or the Smew.  Although the Tufted was seen at one point, he was disappointingly alone.  Longspurs again dominated the landscape, and despite their beauty, weren't getting much attention from any of us.  We were gathered at the end of the East-West runway when a longspur-sized bird flew right past us and dropped into a willow about 30 feet away from us.   Keep in mind that these willows were barely taller than the grasses.  Conversation continued, but I raised my bins, and started calling out "Not a longspur! Not a longspur!" and giving the best description I could.  Fortunately, John was right there and was able to identify it as a female Common Rosefinch. This was a life bird for most of us, and clearly the most cooperative passerine we'd seen on Attu.  Dave managed to see a pair of these birds along one of the taxiways later in the morning.

Female Common Rosefinch - Neil Hayward

Yesterday, a search for Brad's "mystery bird" along the East-West taxiway didn't turn up anything, although the description kind of fit a Lanceolated Warbler.  John thought it was worth another search, and sure enough, as we approached, he heard a  quieter song among the usual clamor of Lapland Longspurs. We surrounded the songster as it moved through the low willows, but as we got close it went quiet.  We didn't see it move out, but somehow it evaded us. We let it be for a while as we checked the ponds and marshes around the runways, and when we returned, it was singing even more.  Eventually we saw it and ultimately were able to photograph and identify it as a Taiga Flycatcher--possibly the same individual seen by a few earlier in the week.  Everyone that was in the area managed to see it.  Brandon had gone off on his own to (successfully) relocate the Gray-tailed Tattler and Common Greenshank that was at Navy Town the day before.

Taiga Flycatcher - Neil Hayward

After lunch, there were decisions to be made.  Where did people want to go?  Some of the group (the brave part) decided to climb the ridge in search of birds and plants.  The others (including me) stayed on flatter ground, searching along the Peaceful River banks and making another visit to Barbara Point.  Mike joined the hiking group who were successful in finding one Rock Ptarmigan, some Snow Buntings and the elusive Kamchatka rhododendron.  

The search for ptarmigan was on Weston Mountain, above this "retired" Quonset hut.

Neil, Dave and I headed up to the Coast Guard Station and the camp where the clean-up crew was stationed.  Neil got ahead of us, and when Dave and I cycled through, one of the crew was outside having a cigarette.  It would have been rude of us to just keep on going, don't you think?  Their camp was made up of several wind and waterproof tents, with a maximum of four, but usually two, to a cabin.  All of them were  quite spacious and had heaters.  There were washrooms and showers, a medical tent, and best of all a huge tent for cooking, dining and gathering. It was like a convenience store right there on Attu!  

We were told that they had a fantastic camp cook.  We figured that there should be a Top Chef Attu competition pitting our cook against theirs.  We don't know who would win, but the food would be awesome!  They also had two pilots on standby in case of emergencies, and the plane was theirs. If I'd known about all of this luxury earlier, I might have tried to get stranded!  Neil noticed our absence and came looking for us. Our downed bikes were a giveaway, so he joined us for the tour.  We moved back to the beach but came up empty-handed for our efforts.  After a couple of hours, we biked back to Casco Cove just off the runway and Bill came to pick us up, along with our bikes.

My bike, enjoying one last nap on the beach at Casco Cove before going back to the ship.

Eventually, the climbers came back to the ship, too, with stories of their hike. The view was spectacular, but the climb a real challenge.  Even though I still didn't have Rock Ptarmigan, I felt I'd made the right choice. There was still a chance for this species on Adak!

After dinner, we went back to the LORAN station for the final time.  It was time to pack up the rest of the bikes and bits and pieces and to add our own names to those of the legends on the walls.  Most of us had to estimate our ABA and Alaska bird numbers, but we erred on the conservative side.  Dave was the most conservative asking us to just put "11" as his ABA number!

Could this be the first Tim Horton's mug on Attu?

Mike came over later in the evening to add his surname. We weren't sure of the spelling, so didn't want to get it wrong.

All packed up and ready to go, Gilbert Ridge and Alexai Point would get one more visit before we departed.

eBird Checklist: May 31

Next: Farewell, Attu!

Shorebirds!

May 30, 2017

Compared to the passerines, you could say that the shorebirds had already treated us better.  We'd seen a few Wood Sandpipers, several Rock Sandpipers, a Red-necked Stint, a Ruddy Turnstone and a Common Snipe already.  There were no flocks of shorebirds, but at least these singletons gave us longer looks than we'd had of other species.

Our third to last day on Attu started out as a morning of biking. We also hoped to refind a couple of the species that we'd seen earlier as not everyone had gotten decent looks at the Olive-backed Pipit or the Taiga Flycatcher.  We were having the harshest weather that we'd had to that point.  Truly Attuvian! The rain was frequent, and a lot colder than what we had been getting. There was fresh snow on some of the hilltops.  This was nothing like storms that previous groups of birders had encountered (Click here for a story from 2000 about that!), but for us it was bad weather. And as promised, with it came some great birds. 

It's true that most of the birds we had been seeing seemed to be sticking around. Neil found Olive-backed Pipits by the upper base building before we got rolling on the bikes.  Like most of the Attu birds before them, as soon as they realized we were looking at them, they flew away, depriving Patty of a much needed bird to get to her goal of 750.

Olive-backed Pipit - Neil Hayward

Between the LORAN station and the runway, we looked again for the flycatcher, without success. With the cold rain pounding down, a few people decided that it might be best to just go back to the Puk-uk and wait out the weather.  Our group had splintered.  Brandon was climbing the hills, Greg and Monica had gone on ahead towards the runway, people were heading back to the base and a few of us were still trying to find a tiny bird in a big landscape.  We were all carrying radios so if someone saw something, they could say something. And then someone did!  Greg and Monica had flushed a shorebird from the creekbed just before the runway. Those of us who still had bikes (yes, the fleet had diminished) raced to join them, while those who had been walking towards the base, turned on their heels and started to come back the way they'd come.  Neil and I were the first to get to Monica and Greg's location. The bird was no longer in sight, but had to be nearby.  We tried walking a large arc outside of the range we thought it could have reached. Boy, were we wrong.  Even the shorebirds were going to be sneaky! The bird was already about 100 ft down the beach, moving back and forth between the sand and the tall grasses on the verge.  Looking for the world like a winter-plumaged Spotted Sandpiper, the bird was identified by Neil as a Common Sandpiper.  It continued to make its way around the cove as the others arrived, and eventually everyone who wanted to, saw it.

Common Sandpiper - Yve Morrell

While some of us were waiting for the others to arrive, Brad had radioed the ship.  There was a Common Greenshank  at the Navy Town Beach! Yve wanted to get a picture of the bird, so once everyone had seen it, she moved towards it, flushing a Red Phalarope in the process.  I managed to miss this species from the ship and now on the shore. Good thing it's regular where I live! 

The Tufted Duck and a Wood Sandpiper were seen in the runway ponds, and a Common Snipe (listen) was calling from the marshy areas, but there would be no dilly-dallying.  We had a greenshank to find!  We got more details from Brad about the location of his sighting. Dave headed to Barbara Point to work the shoreline towards Navy Town, while Monica, Greg, Neil and I rode on past the spit that culminates at Loaf Island to search from the other direction.  We had no luck on our side, so crossed over where the sand met the rocks (as instructed by Brad), and almost immediately, Neil found a Gray-tailed Tattler in the tidepools in front of us. Word was relayed to our group via Dave, and while Monica, Greg, and I kept our eyes on the tattler, Neil went a little farther down the beach in search of the Common Greenshank. In short order, we heard the "Tu tu tu" call and sure enough, a Common Greenshank flew in for us to have some great looks.  The next group of birders were still at least 20 minutes away, so a couple of us "babysat", keeping our eyes on the birds until they arrived.

Shorebird terrain

Gray-tailed Tattler - Neil Hayward

Common Greenshank - Neil Hayward

The group split up to check out more places. I went with the group heading back over to Alexai Point with Neil in the hope that we might turn up an even more spectacular shorebird. John would stay with some of the others and walk along Casco Cove.  We were able get picked up at Navy Town Beach for a delivery across the cove. We were even able to bring our bikes back on board so we wouldn't have to track them down the next day.  We'd been wandering the tundra on Alexai Point for about an hour when Fish and Wildlife biologist Brad radioed in that he had seen a female Smew in the company of a Tufted Duck.  Decision time!  Do we stay at Alexai in the hopes of finding an unknown new bird, or go for the Smew?

Looking for birds in all the wrong places.

Not sure what these eggs belonged to. ;-)

Well, you know what they say about a bird in the hand.  Just as we were turning around, Yve spotted a mystery duck dive in one of the ponds.  We looked and waited for about five minutes. Nothing surfaced. I suspect that it had somehow managed to come up in some vegetation around the edge of the pond, but we had a Smew to find!  It took us about 20 minutes to get back to the boat and and another 10 to get back across the cove and dropped off, when Brad radioed that he also had an interesting passerine along one of the runways.  Greg and Monica had been riding around checking all of the ponds. The Tufted Duck was seen, but without its companion.  Then Brandon called saying that he had seen the Tufted Duck and friend heading from the pond near the revetments back towards where we'd seen the Tufted Duck on Day 1. Sadly, despite the whole group coming back together to get into that chase, we were unable to relocate either bird. Had we missed something equally great by leaving Alexai early? There was still tomorrow, though!  We wouldn't be saying that for long. In the meantime, Brandon had seen Rock Ptarmigan and Snow Bunting during his hilly trek. Splitting up definitely produced more birds, even if everyone couldn't see them!

eBird Checklist: May 30 http://ebird.org/ebird/view/checklist/S37434999

Next: Becoming a Part of Attu History

Gilbert Ridge Revisited

May 29, 2017

I think this was the first day that I thought about how close this trip was to being over.  We'd come a long way and been working hard for the birds, but a bit of quiet desperation was creeping in.  We only had so much time left.

The weather has been consistently inconsistent.  It drizzled, then stopped, then sun, then clouds, then wind, then drizzle again. It made wardrobe planning so difficult!

The conditions were right today for a drop off near the stinky whale carcass for a trip to Gilbert Ridge and Alexai Point the "normal" way--first the ridge, then the point.  John and Neil did the heavy lifting by walking inland of the trail, which was now wetter than the first time we'd made this passage.  Their goal was to find some rarity or uncommon bird skulking in the crevices waiting for the opportunity to return home to Asia.

For much of the walk, it was the same as before--Song Sparrows, a Pacific Wren, not much moving around.  The waterfalls were flowing more heavily than when we last passed, bolstered by the daily rainfall.  Fortunately, all the creeks were still easily passable.

Finally, we spotted some small birds flying around the haystacks.  They were Brambling, and gave us hope that perhaps some other new birds might be around.   A Gray-crowned Rosy Finch was also spotted by some in the group. We continued along, when all of a sudden, a Gray Wagtail took off in front of us.  This was probably the same bird we'd chased a few days earlier, and like before, it flew away from us.  But then it did something different.  It looped around and flew up to a clear spot in a nearby waterfall!  Finally, we all got decent looks and a couple of people even managed to get photographs.

You have to wonder about the people who name birds.  When I got a look at this one, the last thing I noticed was that it had a gray back.  It was brilliant yellow with a black throat.  And gray was the first thing the namers noticed?

Even though we were going slightly uphill, the walk in this direction seemed easier. I suspect it was because we were fresh and hadn't had a two-hour bog walk before starting.  The group had stretched out along the trail and Brandon reached Alexai Point ahead of the rest of us.  He relocated the Tundra Bean-Goose and saw the Eurasian Skylark.  It seemed that most birds we'd seen since our arrival had stuck around. A Common Snipe flushed from the grasses at the point, the first we'd seen. Those who had been on the island last year said that they'd been found frequently, so we were glad to finally get one.  Then a call from Brandon on the radio. He had a swallow flying around over a couple of structures on the hill.  It turned out to be a Barn Swallow, but not the American subspecies. This was the Eurasian Barn Swallow, which has quite different plumage than the ones we are used to.  It was strikingly beautiful.

Barn Swallow - Neil Hayward

Tundra Bean-Goose with Cackling Geese -Neil Hayward

We walked the beaches at the point and found a single shorebird--the same Red-necked Stint that we'd seen on our first trip there.  Birds were definitely sticking around.  Did they know something we didn't?

Along the beach we found a different kind of carcass. Not an animal this time, but the apparent remains of a wooden boat.

The weather was taking a turn for the worse, which could mean good things for the next day.  Back on the Puk-uk, Nicole was preparing her fancier meals for calmer waters--and alternate choices for spice wimps like me!  For dessert, we had views of three Black Scoters in Casco Cove where we were anchored.

eBird checklist: May 29
Next: Shorebirds!

Back to the Bikes

May 28, 2017

Just after we got used to the good weather, things were drizzly again this morning.  Drizzle is the most problematic, as not only does it make things awkward in terms of wardrobe management, but optics are never happy in drizzle.  The only thing is that we've been told bad weather means good birds, so we at least start the day optimistically.

Today was another day on the bikes, and when I got on mine, I immediately remembered the spots that I had bruised and chafed on Day 1.  As much fun as this trip is, each day seems to also include an element of physical torture!  Pro tip: Attu participants who do not ride bikes regularly should bring padded bike shorts!   I definitely have to work on my bike riding skill when I get back home, but I've become quite adept at strapping my tripod to the bicycle rack.  

Before we got going in earnest, we made a side trip to the "Upper Base" building.  No, you are not supposed to go in. Yes, some of us did.  This was the building that was home for trip leaders and also housed the kitchen and main dining area As I looked around, I imagined some of my friends of today hanging out or toiling in here a decades ago.  They might have a heart attack when they see the photos!

The kitchen was still in fairly good shape, all things considered.

The walls told a story!  There WERE birders here between the end of Attours (2000) and the beginning of Zugunruhe's tours (2010).  Aboard the Puk-uk at some point, John told us his story.  Although Attours shut down in 2000 when the runways were closed to the public, people from the University of Alaska continued to come.  While common logic suggested that Attu birding was only as good as it was because there were so many birders to cover the landscape (50-70 on most Attours trips), the small teams from U of A were managing to "collect" a good number and variety of specimens. Yes, they shot them.  John's logic was that if teams of three collectors could find good birds, why not small groups of birders, and the relationship between Zugunruhe, the Puk-uk, and Attu was begun.  And that was a great thing for those of us lucky enough to participate.

Despite the rain, the omen for good birding, it seemed unbirdy as we started the day again.  John and Neil left the trail to search the hillside for hiding birds, and less than an hour into our trip, John thought he heard and saw a smallish flycatcher. As we chased after it, we managed to turn up at least two Olive-backed Pipits (actually got good looks), and a Song Sparrow fledgling that had a very flycatcher-like buzzy call.  But the first bird was still eluding us. Neil and John pulled out all the stops to try to relocate the probable Taiga Flycatcher.

Olive-backed Pipit

A better look. Olive-backed Pipit - Neil Hayward

While John walked the ridge, Neil headed up the near vertical bank, with Brandon, Dave and Yve taking different courses to the top. Almost at the top, Neil lost his footing and started glissading (henceforth known as the Hayward slide) down the rock and grass surface, camera in one hand and scope in the other.  When he finally came to a stop, thankfully he and his gear were all intact. He admits it was a scary experience, though.  Brandon was on a bit of stable ground about half way up, and found his way down safely after witnessing how Neil did it.  From the bottom, Clarice made the comment of the day.  Watching Neil regroup after his slide, she asked, "Do we all have to do it like that?"  After at least an hour trying to relocate the flycatcher, we headed out to a few other spots to check for birds, but knew that we'd be back to try again. Yve had caught a glimpse of it, but wanted a better look to count it for her big year.

I think it was around this point that Patty decided that feet were better than wheels.  We were lucky enough to have decent bikes, not the old rusty ones famous from the movie, but the terrain was not kind to those who didn't regularly ride off-trail. Patty was on a quest for her 750 ABA bird and wanted to do it without sacrificing any bones. She wouldn't be the only one to abandon her bike before the trip ended.

Today's ride included a long coast down the runway after checking out the various taxiways and revetments.  It was kind of strange "flying" down the same runway that fighter planes did a lifetime ago.  Clarice's interest in Attu included returning her father's ashes to the location he was based during the war, a mission she accomplished with the help of Mike later in the day.

The North-South runway is still in good shape.

The East-West and taxiways, not so much.

The group split with some staying behind to look for the flycatcher, while others went by bike to a new location.  I was part of the bike gang. We continued on past the Coast Guard Station, where a whole crew of people are working on site clean-up.  I'm not convinced that it's even possible, but I'm glad they are trying.  The clean-up crew had a skookum camp, though!  (Non-Canadians may have to look that up.)  And a plane!  I'm not sure what rules apply for landing planes on Attu these days, but I have to admit to a few moments of wondering how to get a ride back on it.  We had two pilots, Monica and Greg, in our group, and it apparently was a twelve passenger plane.  Hmmm..... ;-)

What??  A plane on Attu??

At nearby Barbara Point and nearby Debris Beach, the rusting relics of equipment from the war provide shelter for marine plants and animals, which included a Ruddy Turnstone this afternoon.  The beach is strewn with equipment which was apparently fired up and headed towards the sea at the end of the war. There it sat, useless to anyone, purposely ruined by salt water washing over and through it.

Debris Beach - Neil Hayward (2016)

Hillside reminder

Attu is an island of extreme contrasts.  On one hand, it has amazing plant life and geology, and on the other, it is a testament to the disregard we have had for the planet we live on.
Returning to try to locate the flycatcher, we spaced ourselves along the ridge face where it had last been seen. Despite the best efforts by several people, it wasn't relocated.

Greg and Monica are also long distance cyclists, and exploring some of the farthest reaches found a Brambling not far from where we saw one yesterday.  A new trip bird for me was a Greater Scaup back near the LORAN station lower base.

That evening, the trip's annual poetry night was held.  This is an event where people can share their own work, read from the books on board, or share other poems or readings that inspired them.  They ranged from Robert Services's "The Shooting of Dan McGrew", to a brand new poem written by crew member, Mike Shelman, just before the party started.  I recited Linda Rockwell's poem on migration, posted to Facebook about 18 months ago.  It gives me shivers.

MIGRATION

While you were sleeping last night

I flew 300 miles without stopping or eating.

An ounce of bright feathers, heart, muscle,

And bones as light as air.

Danger everywhere:

Predators, exhaustion, windows that look like sky.

Today I eat seeds in your garden.

You do not notice a miracle.

eBird Checklist: May 28

Next: Gilbert Ridge Revisited